Bi-LED: Morimoto M LED Stage III

$437.00

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Description

OUTPUT: We’ll just start with the hotspot. It’s on par with the Mini D2S 4.0 and a XB 45K Bulb / XB55 ballast, and about 20{adb75e94be477238d081b93937739258d222ecc5d6e49c1a21f75f4b3cfcda23} brighter than it’s closest LED-based competitor: the CNLight i-lens. The Kuria optic clear lens and curved cutoff shield produce a beam pattern that’s plenty wide, with an ECE-sloped cutoff that’s super sharp, colorful. Rather than off-the-shelf LED’s like early LED projectors in the aftermarket, the MLED uses a specially developed CSP chipset from Seoul SemiConductor. To top it all off, the “M” icon that’s projected onto the ground thanks to the special foreground limiter is just plain cool.

PHYSICALLY: It has a lot going for it too. The threaded mounting shaft can be removed from the projector to free up almost an inch of depth for those who don’t need/want it. The integrated mag-lev fan is sunk into the heat sink, keeping space to a minimum without sacrificing the ability to stay cool. The wiring is clean, out of the way, and can be disconnected with ease. The precision and existence of mostly die-cast (rather than stamped) parts in the cutoff shield mechanism makes for a slop-free setup and conveys quality over cost savings. It could pass for an OEM part.

SIMPLICITY: Forget about separate bulbs. Forget about big ballasts, or where to mount them. Forget about complex relay harnesses, and where to run them. Here, you’ve got the projector and a small external LED driver to regulate power and control it’s low and high beam function. If you’re a clutter phobe, or simply tight on space working on something like a motorcycle: the MLED is the way to go.

EASY TO INSTALL: On a H4-based headlight reflector for example…Remove the headlight lens, insert the threaded mounting shaft through the pre-existing hole in the back of the reflector, add the alignment plate, tighten the lock ring, and re-seal the headlights. For other applications, minimal cutting will probably be involved but you’ll find the results well worth it!

WORTH IT?If you want the latest and greatest, Yes. It is. Want to produce about the same amount of light output for your money? The Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 is probably better for you – only because it’s less expensive. But consider this: Yeah, the Morimoto M-LED projectors are expensive, but unlike an HID-based retrofit, you wont need bulbs, ballasts, in many cases a wire harness. You just need some shrouds, and that’s about it! The rest is here.

OPTIONAL LED HALOS: Though LED halos may not be for everybody, if you’re looking for the cleanest, most simple, most reliable setup, we highly recommend the Profile Performance Pivot Halos. Not only are they the brightest, most uniformly lit halos currently on the market, but they double as a switchback turn signal with your blinker circuit. The integrated controllers are extremely easy to setup with only three wires (white, amber, and ground) and allow you to run the white mode continuously until interrupted by the signal – at which point they will blink amber. Once the signal stops, the Pivot ring will automatically switch back to its pure white mode.

OPTIONAL HOUSING SEALANT: Protection is priceless! When you’re putting together a set of high-end headlights, the last thing you want is moisture in ’em the first time it rains outside. RetroRubber is the most effective way to make sure the original seal is fully restored. For the small price, why anybody wouldn’t prevent their new headlights from fogging up is beyond us. It’ll be the best twelve bucks you’ve ever spent.

Additional information

Bi-Led Projectors

Bi-LED: Morimoto M LED (LHD)

High/Low Splitters

Splitter: H4 Male>9006/9006 Female, Splitter: H13 Male>9006/9006 Female, Splitter: 9007 Male>9006/9006 Female

Shroud Preference

Apollo 1.0, Bullet, Gatlin Gun 2.0, Mini Turbine

Housing Sealant

Butyl